Category Encinitas Life
昨日までの仕事で忙しかったので、休みを取ってサーフィン。何ヶ月ぶりかな？
I took a day off and went surfing for the first time in how many months!? The work was just too busy to go surfing...
天気は◎、波は膝腰。ブランク明けのなまった身体にその優しさが染み渡りました(^-^)/
Great weather and the waves were on the small side like knee to waist high, so it was suited for my "untrained" body.
ホームのPontoは満潮で小波=ブヨブヨなので、ママの7'6のファンボードを拝借。ビタリ正解で大満足。
Small waves at Ponto don't break well when too much water with high tide. So I chose my wife's 7'6 funboard and bingo! It was very fun!
それにしても、人がいなくてのんびりサーフィン。去年引っ越す前は激戦区でやってたので、やっぱり郊外はいいな～と再確認。
I realized again that surfing at suburb like Carlsbad is great since not many surfers are there and virtually no competition to get waves. My former beach Scripps is always too crowded.
ビーチのほとんどが州立公園だから開発禁止で手つかずの自然そのまま。簡易トイレがポツンとあるくらい(^^)
It is all about nature here and development is prohibited because most beaches in Carlsbad are state parks. You see a temporal toilet in the picture below and that's it.
地上の何もかも忘れて、リラックスできました。
I could completely relaxed feeling like nothing to worry about on the land.
たまにこういう日も必要ですね。
I guess I need a day like this sometimes...
I took a day off and went surfing for the first time in how many months!? The work was just too busy to go surfing...
天気は◎、波は膝腰。ブランク明けのなまった身体にその優しさが染み渡りました(^-^)/
Great weather and the waves were on the small side like knee to waist high, so it was suited for my "untrained" body.
ホームのPontoは満潮で小波=ブヨブヨなので、ママの7'6のファンボードを拝借。ビタリ正解で大満足。
Small waves at Ponto don't break well when too much water with high tide. So I chose my wife's 7'6 funboard and bingo! It was very fun!
それにしても、人がいなくてのんびりサーフィン。去年引っ越す前は激戦区でやってたので、やっぱり郊外はいいな～と再確認。
I realized again that surfing at suburb like Carlsbad is great since not many surfers are there and virtually no competition to get waves. My former beach Scripps is always too crowded.
ビーチのほとんどが州立公園だから開発禁止で手つかずの自然そのまま。簡易トイレがポツンとあるくらい(^^)
It is all about nature here and development is prohibited because most beaches in Carlsbad are state parks. You see a temporal toilet in the picture below and that's it.
地上の何もかも忘れて、リラックスできました。
I could completely relaxed feeling like nothing to worry about on the land.
たまにこういう日も必要ですね。
I guess I need a day like this sometimes...
